Last month we enjoyed a long weekend with 6 friends in the picturesque fishing port of Eyemouth in Berwickshire, in the Scottish Borders.  The historic town boasts a natural harbour and breathtaking coastal scenery.  Many of the features of a traditional fishing village have been retained in the narrow wynds and vennels – offering shelter from the sea and well suited to smuggling which would have been rife during the 18th Century.  Indeed Eyemouth was a hub for smugglers in those days, being the closest Scottish port to the continent, and scattered about the town were hidden stores and secret passages.

Our accommodation for our stay was Gunsgreen House, a beautiful 18th Century merchant's villa dominating the town from its elevated position above the harbour.  This central location made the perfect base for exploring the town and surrounding coastal paths and what a bonus that the weather was warm and sunny.

Gunsgreen House was built in the 1750s for notorious smuggler, John Nisbet.  Designed by John Adam, one of the most famous and most expensive architects of the day, this stunning house was at the centre of an illicit trade in wine, spirits, tea and tobacco.  The house has had a rich and colourful history and we loved searching out all the hidden spaces, including a tea chute, where John hid all his smuggled goods.

The lower levels of the house accomodate a fun, interactive museum telling the story of its past through the ‘Smuggling Experience’.  We enjoyed a free tour as part of our stay which we thoroughly enjoyed.  In fact it was a really novel experience to be staying in an actual museum as the upper rooms are part of the tour when they are not being occupied.

There are several great coastal walks on the doorstep and we enjoyed beautiful conditions on both the days we ventured along the cliff tops. The coast offers opportunities for birdwatching, fishing and diving as well as sightseeing boat trips and fishing trips. 

We particulary enjoyed watching the seals, who frequent the harbour hoping to get a free meal from the boatmen when the fishing boats return. Visitors can actually buy fish to feed the seals from a stand on the harbour.

I'd only visited Eyemouth briefly in the rain several years ago but was so pleased that my return visit was such a great experience.  Looking forward to returning in the not too distant future.